The Life and moods of Lake Chapala - Part 1

A Snowy Egret broods on the prow of a fishing boat gently rocking at anchor. On a crystal clear January afternoon in Mezcala harbor, I was as mesmerized by the sparkling water. So was the beautiful white bird I was photographing. This photo is one of my favorites because it so perfectly captures the mood of the many sunny days we enjoy at Lake Chapala. I have long considered the possibility of a blog posting with a focus on the Lake itself, but wondered if I had enough quality pictures to adequately tell its story. I not only wanted to convey information, but to capture the feeling of living at this place. I reviewed thousands of shots I have taken over the last three years, looking for just the right ones. A few of them I have used in other postings, but most I have never shown before now. I hope you enjoy this special two part series.

From the high ground, a vast expanse of blue

Looking southwest from high in the mountains of the North Shore. Below lie the western outskirts of Ajijic. In the distance are the mountains which rim the South Shore. Behind the rim mountains, under the clouds, the long blue Tapalpa Plateau stretches across the horizon. On top of that rolling plateau, the rocky, pine-clad landscape is very different from the lush semi-tropical country around Lake. Lake Chapala stretches out on an east-to-west plane, about 30 miles south of Guadalajara. It is the largest lake in Mexico, about 50 miles long, with a width of as much as 12 miles. Although broad, it is quite shallow, only about 30 feet maximum depth, with a mean depth of about 20 feet. In many places along the shore, one can walk out a long way into the water before reaching a depth over waist-high. To locate Lake Chapala in Mexico, check out this map.

Looking south over Ajijic's El Centro, Mt. Garcia looms across the lake. Unlike the previous photo, which was taken in the lush green of summer, the shot above was taken during the late winter, when the countryside assumes a rich brown coloration. The surface of Lake Chapala is almost exactly 5000 feet above sea level, and many of the mountains rimming it rise above 8000. Mt. Garcia, seen above, is the most visible landmark from the North Shore, topping out at just under 9000 feet. The wonderful year-round climate of the Lake is the result of its altitude, its huge size, and fact that it lies in a bowl surrounded by volcanic peaks and ridges. These factors help maintain a very moderate year-round temperature, along with low humidity. In fact, Lake Chapala is reputed to have the 2nd best climate in the world, yielding only to someplace in Kenya. Climate has always been very important to both Carole and I. Neither of us can abide the combination of high heat and humidity, nor are we much attracted to snow and bitter cold.

Looking southeast over the string of small villages that line the North Shore. These were each separate and distinct small pueblos at one time, and several were already ancient villages before the Spanish arrived. In the last few decades, they have grown together along the single highway that connects them on the Lake's North Shore. Although the Lake you have seen in these pictures may look large, it extends at least another 30 miles out of sight to the east. Lake Chapala has three seasons. June through October is the rainy season, with average temperatures in the mid-70s to mid-80s (F) during the days and 60s to 70s at night. Although we get some dramatic thunderstorms during the rainy season, nearly all the rain occurs at night. Days tend to be cool and cloudy in the morning and warm, sunny, and a little humid in the afternoons. Winter begins in November and runs through March. Temperatures are a little lower: 60s to 70s during the day and 50s-60s at night. But the days are glorious, crystal clear and sunny with cool breezes, free of humidity. In late March, it starts to warm up and the "hot season" begins, running from early April through mid-June. The hot season is quite dry, sometimes dusty, and temperatures can rise into the low 90s. Still, it is nothing like the summer in Southern California, Arizona, or Texas, with their baking-hot climate, or the thickly damp and humid heat of the US Mid-West or the South. In complaining about heat in Lake Chapala, we're all a little bit spoiled.

People and the Lake

Fishing boats float at anchor in Chapala's harbor on a sparkling winter day. Mt. Garcia is slightly obscured by a light haze over the Lake. Sometimes this haze gathers from dust kicked up by strong winds over the long dry lakes on the other side of the South Shore's mountains, along the base of the Tapalpa Plateau. While fishing is still an important part of the local economy, it has been eclipsed by agriculture, tourism and some light manufacturing and commercial activity, mainly centered on the populated western third of the North Shore. In fact, these boats are as likely to be used to transport tourists to Scorpion Island off Chapala's shore, as they are to harvest the Lake's depleted fisheries. The light-colored patches at the base of Mt. Garcia are plastic sheeting covering bean and berry crops of the large farms on the South Shore.

Ajijic's pier has had a rocky history. Seen from the waterfront of Amistad Park, the pier stretches into the shallows. Mexico law has tried to protect the Lake Chapala waterfront for public use. It forbids building private or commercial projects within a certain number of feet of the shoreline. Encroachments by private landowners, often with the connivance of local officials, regularly occur. They are just as regularly fought by people in the community, both Mexican and expat. Ever since the restaurant began construction along the public pier, questions have been raised about its legitimacy. Now a citizen's petition has initiated legal action against the owner of the restaurant. These things are always very murky, with charges (sometimes founded, sometimes not) of payoffs or special deals. I have mixed feelings about the restaurant. On the one hand, I don't want the law flouted and the Lake's shore taken over by commericial interests. On the other, the restaurant does provide a nice place to while away a hot afternoon meditating on the changing colors of the Lake.

On the end of Ajijic's pier, a lone fisherman tries his luck. This is a popular spot for the locals, and I have seen them pull out quite a number of fish over time. Tilapia and carp are the most likely products of this man's efforts. However, it is just as likely that his real goal is to enjoy the evening as the golden light fades and the sun drops behind the western mountains.

A gorgeous day for a ride along Ajijic's shore. A young boy exercises his horse along the shore line. Except when the water is high, one can walk for a considerable distance along the shore in Ajijic. Most of it looks pretty much like the stretch above, although a new malecon (built-up public waterfront) has been constructed for a couple of hundred yards to the west of the Ajijic pier. During a quiet walk along the shore, one can view Great White or Snowy Egrets wading the shallows with their long skinny legs, or performing intricate mating rituals. In winter, flotillas of majestic White Pelicans perform their naval maneuvers off shore. Sometimes, in the evening, a young man will wade waist-deep into the water and begin throwing and retrieving a large circular net, hoping to extract dinner from the murky waters. Similar activities have continued, almost uninterrupted, for hundreds or even thousands of years.

Enjoying the soft glow of a quiet evening. A young Mexican couple has found a new way to express mutual support. This railing used to run the length of Amistad Park, just above the water. Since a flood in the summer of 2008, all this has been replaced by the new malecon. As with the pier, I have mixed feelings. I really loved the old park with its huge old shade trees along the shore. The new malecon is attractive, however, and the locals seem to enjoy it.

Petatan, ground zero for White Pelicans. Petatan is a small fishing village on the South Shore. Here its point juts into the Lake like the long sharp prow of one its many fishing boats. Petatan was originally a volcanic cone which formed a small island a couple of hundred yards off the South Shore, about 1 1/2 hours drive from Ajijic. At least as of 1976, it was still an island, according to topographical map I saw in Chapala. Some time after then, a causeway was constructed connecting the island and its little village with the shore. Petatan has become locally famous because of the huge winter congregation of White Pelicans along its waterfront. They gather in hopes of feasting on fish parts discarded from the day's catch by local fishermen. In the photo above, you can see them in the distance, cruising around the point.

Two young fishermen prepare to try their luck off Petatan's waterfront. The net held by the boy on the right is the same type of circular, hand-thrown net I have seen used in Ajijic. Although young, both boys knew their business. One skillfully handled the boat, while the other cast the net. After a bit, they returned with a nice catch of tilapia. A bit further out, a squadron of pelicans cruises watchfully, hoping for a snack.

And he didn't have to lie about the one that got away... This Petatan fisherman got very lucky with his net. He proudly showed off his catch, probably a tilapia, but larger than any I have ever seen brought out of the Lake. Both tilapia and carp are introduced species. Originally the Lake abounded with White Fish, a unique, and reportedly very tasty, species which is now extinct. At one time, the Lake produced 150 tons of White Fish each year, but it was a species unable compete against environmental degradation, pollution, and competition with the introduced species. Notice the fisherman's hat, which spells out "Los Angeles." The hat is no doubt an introduced species which has strongly competed against the traditional straw hats. Ironically, while expats here (including me) favor the straw hats, the locals often favor baseball caps with north-of-the-border slogans and logos.

Preparing the pelicans' lunch (at least from the pelicans' point of view). Labor is divided in traditional ways in Petatan. The men catch the fish, and the women clean them. During several visits, I have never seen this division violated. The women were amused that we wanted photos of what they must have considered a rather pedestrian task, but they consented with grins all around. Petatan is an extraordinarily friendly place. People walked up and introduced themselves and tried to make sure we were having a good time. One woman stopped our small party and insisted on giving each of us a hug. Another proudly showed off her small shrine dedicated to the Virgen de Guadalupe.

After the catch, work remains. We found this fellow carefully straightening and winding up his net. Although he looks rather grumpy, his expression was due to the brilliant sunshine. He was actually quite friendly and enjoyed having his picture taken with his small, very dirty dog snoozing at his feet. He has not given up the traditional style of hat for the more fashionable baseball cap.

Lakeside animals

Animals, as well as people, seem enjoy the Lake. There are many creatures which live beside, on, or under the Lake. Horse owners regularly turn their stock loose on the shore to graze and water themselves. I have often seen this calico colt and its mother wandering the grassy shore while munching on the fresh green shoots. Although there is a considerable amount of petty theft in the area, no one seems to keep a close eye on horses such as this one. Perhaps it is because everyone knows to whom it belongs, and a thief would have a hard time disposing of his ill-gotten gains.

From under the water, a bountiful catch. One of the species most common in the Lake is Charal. These small fish, about the size and appearance of sardines, are caught by the tens of thousands, although there have been reports of declining catches in recent years. Charales are a common "street food" around the Lake. They are deep fried whole, and served in shallow cardboard containers with fresh sliced lime and hot salsa. Due to concerns about pollution in the Lake, I have yet to try them, but the locals seem to enjoy them.

Snowy Egret and a seagull share a local fisherman's boat. I enjoyed playing with this photo, digitally adjusting the color and other features until it finally resembled a painting. It really didn't fit in the posting I was creating at the time, so I am glad I finally got to use it. Although birds like these are competitors for fish and other small creatures of the Lake, these two seem to have put aside their differences just to enjoy the quiet, sunny afternoon together.

Another critter enjoys himself, as only a dog can. Dogs of all shapes and sizes are a daily fact of life around the Lake. This labrador retriever joyfully plunged into the Lake again and again, as long as his master was willing to throw the empty plastic bottle. His appetite for retrieval finally outlasted the strength of his master's arm. The sheer joy of a water dog in his element is a wonder to behold. Humans are very fortunate if they manage to find as much pleasure in such simple activities.

Egrets and White Pelicans maintain an uneasy truce. Though they often share the same perching sites, there always seems to me to be sense of tension. Here, the crowd of pelicans, heading for their evening feast of fish scraps, finally overwhelms the patience of a shore dwelling Great White Egret. The egret flaps its broad wings as it leans into its takeoff.

Food fight at the Petatan shoreline! Gathering around a great heap of scraps, the flock squawks and flaps and jostles. Throwing its head back and spreading its wings, the pelican in the center prepares to swallow a tasty morsel. Others look on enviously, or search for an advantageous position.

Pelican arrival forms a good excuse for another fiesta. Petatan and other local towns in the area have found another good excuse for a fiesta with their annual Pelican Festival, timed for the annual in-migration of these great birds from the US and Canada. The Festival draws attention to their small towns, brings in tourists from Lake Chapala's North Shore and Guadalajara, and allows everybody to have a walloping good time. The Festival also highlights the environment and wildlife of the Lake and helps local efforts to clean up the Lake and protect it from encroachments.

This completes Part 1 of my two part series on Lake Chapala. I hope I was able to communicate the daily enjoyment I get from living next to this wonderful resource. In Part 2, I will cover the changes the Lake has experienced in recent years, and finish with a photo series of "mood shots" I think you will enjoy. Feed-back is always welcome, either through the comments section below or directly by email. If you leave a question in the comments section, please be sure you leave your email so I can reply.

Hasta luego! Jim

Teocuitatlan: "The place of gold"

A sunny afternoon on the Teocuitatlan Plaza. Above, a lovely set of portales (arched walkways) with a distinct Moorish design line the Plaza. Behind them, the steeples and dome of Parrochia San Miguel Archangel rise against fluffy white clouds. Several months ago, Carole and I and our friend Maya decided to visit the small city of Teocuitatlan de Corona. The city's name comes from the ancient Nahua language and means "the place of gold". Teocuitatlan lies in the valley just behind the mountains which rim the south side of Lake Chapala, about 90 minutes from Ajijic. This small colonial city is actually quite near the Barranca Yerba Buena where we discovered huge waterfalls and later enjoyed a Corn Harvest Fiesta with a local farmer (see Hiking under the Index of Topics for postings on these places). My earlier visits to the area whetted my appetite to see what Teocuitatlan might hold. We were charmed by what we found.

Ancient colonial columns support the portales. The smooth, cool stones of the walkway have been trod for centuries by people coming to do business in the small shops which line the sides of the Plaza. The color scheme of the buildings, rust red on the lower part, creamy white above, is typical of many old colonial mountain towns. Only the bicycle and the "Farmacia" sign betray the century in which you are viewing this scene. When the Spanish under Captain Juan Alvarez Chico arrived in 1521, they found a village of Coca Indians here, ruled by the Lord Tzaullan. Only a few years before, there had been a fierce struggle through this area called the Salt Wars, fought by the Purepecha Empire (also known as the Tarascans) to secure control of the salt flats to the west of the town, around the dry lakes which lie between present day Guadalajara and Colima. Salt was essential to food preservation and preparation and also to indigenous industrial activities such as textile production. The Purepechas had few sources and, to secure access, they had to range far from their base around Lake Patzcuaro in present-day Michoacan.

A view of the Plaza and its kiosco from the shade of the portales. A few years after their initial visit, the Spanish returned in 1523 under Captain Alonzo de Avalos. This time they stayed, and the Captain annexed the area to the Province of Avalos under the Kingdom of New Galicia. Spanish families and their Tlaxcallan, Aztec, and Tarascan Indian allies began to settle on the lands of the quiet, fertile valley under the shadow of Mt. Garcia.

Another view of the Plaza. In 1825, shortly after the War of Independence, Jalisco public records note a city hall in the town. By 1844, the town of Teocuitatlan had grown enough to be incorporated as the seat of the municipality (county government) called by the same name. Today, only a handful of indigenous people remain, none of them the original Cocas. Most of the current indigenous people speak Huichol, the language of a people who came into the area in more recent years from the mountainous border to the north between Jalisco and Nayarit States.

Aguacate seller pockets his profit after making a sale. We stopped to buy fresh aguacates (avocados) from this street seller. All a Mexican has to do to start up a business is lay out his goods on the sidewalk. Notice the old-fashioned balance scale at his feet. He seemed in a good mood after we made our purchases so I asked his permission for a photo.

Teocuitatlan street scene reveals bustling prosperity. I was surprised by the number of new cars on the streets, a good sign of prosperity. El Centro of Teocuitatlan was well kept, another sign of community pride and modest affluence. The population of the municipality is a little less than 13,000 people, of which about 1/3 live in the city, the rest in towns, villages and farms around area. About 1/3 of the population consists of children under 14. Mexico is a young country and Teocuitatlan shows it. Agriculture, not surprisingly in this lush valley, is the major economic activity. Sugar cane, sorghum, beans and corn are the major crops. Horses, cattle, pigs, and poultry are typical of the livestock. I have seen all of these crops and livestock at first hand in our various hikes around the Barranca Yerba Buena.

The steeple of San Miguel Archangel parish church rises above the city Plaza. Framed by the lush vegetation and palm trees, the tall steeple is a landmark for miles in every direction. The church dates from the 16th Century. In the middle of the 19th Century, Mexico fought two back-to-back wars which were critical to the future of the country. The first was the Reform War, in which President Benito Juarez, a full blooded Indian, fought to break the power of conservative landowners and the church. The second was against the French, who invaded at the invitation of the losers of the Reform War and installed Maximillian, an Austrian Duke, as Mexico's "Emperor." Juarez, a contemporary and friend of Abraham Lincoln, eventually won. The French were ousted and Emperor Maximillian was executed. Two of the heroes of these wars, Generals Donato Guerra and Ramon Corona, both came from Teocuitatlan. It was Gen. Ramon Corona who accepted Emperor Maximillian's sword when he surrendered in Queretaro.

Sanctuary of San Miguel Archangel was filled with natural light. Often I have trouble with photos in these old colonial churches, which tend toward shadowy dimness. In this case, the design of the church was such that the sanctuary was suffused with soft light.

A side chapel provides for quiet contemplation. Side chapels such as this one form the arms of the cross, while the long room of the sanctuary forms the main axis. Sometimes these side chapels are gaudy with ornamentation and statues of saints or the Virgin. In this case, the design and decorations were simple, but elegant.

We had worked up an appetite for lunch and El Mirador did not disappoint. This is a wonderful restaurant in a great location where I have eaten several times while exploring Lake Chapala's South Shore. There is never a shortage of tables, as you can see above. El Mirador del Marinero (The Sailor's Lookout) sits right on the edge of a bluff, providing a stunning view of Lake Chapala and the mountains that line the North Shore. The restaurant is open-air, simply a large flat spot covered by a palapa (palm frond) roof. There is no glass in the window to separate you from the cool breezes off the lake that come wafting through on a warm afternoon. The food is excellent and more than plentiful. The free hors d'oeuvres were tasty and varied and could have made a meal in themselves. Finally, the price was surprisingly inexpensive. El Mirador del Marinero sits on the Lake side of the road about 1/2 way between Tuxcueca and Tizapan. Definitely worth a stop if you are in the area.

Tall palm sways gently in the afternoon breeze. Teocuitatlan de Corona is another of the many little jewels of the South Shore of Lake Chapala, waiting for the discovery of those who don't mind the less-beaten path. Carole and I have always been intrigued by the unseen "other side of the hill", and drawn to discover its secrets. Here in Mexico, there is nearly always a reward at the end of such a quest.

I hope you enjoyed our little jaunt to Teocuitatlan de Corona. I always enjoy comments from viewers. You can either leave a comment in the section below or email me directly. If you leave a question in the comments section, please be sure you also leave your email address so I can answer.

Hasta luego, Jim

The Mexican Revolution: Past and present

Viva Zapata! Mexican Revolutionary hero Emiliano Zapata poses in full war regalia. This old picture is a classic of the Revolution, with Zapata clutching a Winchester rifle and wearing the obligatory crossed bandoliers and broad sombrero. Last week was the 99th anniversary of the Mexican Revolution, which erupted on November 20, 1910. I had already collected a number of these wonderful old photos for a magazine article I wrote, and I decided to pair them up with some of the photos I shot at the Revolution Day celebration in Ajijic. The commentary that follows will focus both on the past and the present.

Emiliano Zapata was one of the two great generals of the Revolution who rose from humble places among the people. He was born on a small rancho in Morelos State, south of Mexico city. At an early age, he started organizing the campesinos against illegal land seizures by the hacienda owners. When the Revolution started, he was already leading an armed struggle for Tierra y Libertad (Land and Liberty).

Solemn and martial, a young Ajijic boy marched in Revolution Day parade. Parents take great pride in dressing up their kids for this colorful parade. In pre-Revolutionary days, a boy like this would have had little chance for education or advancement in life. He might have spent his life as a near-serf on a hacienda, or working in a mine or factory and owing the company store more than he could ever repay. His son would inherit the debt and be forced to work in his place after the father's death. Today, a child like this has access to an education up to the university level, health care, the minimum wage and other worker rights, including the right to work wherever he wants. This is not to say Mexico doesn't still have deep social and economic problems, and poverty on a large scale, but this boy has much better opportunities in life than his pre-Revolutionary ancestors.

Soldados y Adelitas. For all of Mexico's macho reputation, there was a time when women fought fiercely alongside the male soldiers. Although they originally followed their men to war to cook their food and take care of the wounded, women soon picked up weapons and became valued warriors in the field. A corrido, (ballad) called "Adelita" became popular when it was sung around the army campfires. It recalled a young woman named Adelita who went to war with her soldier boyfriend. Ever after, these women soldiers were called Las Adelitas. In addition to the two young women in the front row, notice the soldier with the violin behind them, probably even then thinking up a new corrido. The inscription on the lower left says Tuesday, 23 of April, 1912 and further information suggests that these were part of Zapata's army.

Modern-day soldados and Adelitas. Children in period costume march down Hidalgo street toward the plaza. Although there is still much that is macho in Mexican culture, women pursue most of the occupations that men do, particularly at the professional level. All three of the immigration attornies we have used are women, as are most of the dentists we have tried.

President Porfirio Diaz, pompous and medel-bedecked. I found this old photo of Porfirio Diaz, the dictator who held power for nearly 30 years before he was overthrown by revolutionary troops under Emiliano Zapata and Pancho Villa. Mexico advanced economically under Diaz, with new factories, oil fields, and thousands of miles of railroad. However, the fruits of this development flowed overwhelmingly to a small segment at the top of society, and to foreign corporations who dominated most of the key industries. Diaz maintained control through police-state tactics and rigged elections.

Ajijic parade shows off Porfiristas as well as Revolutionaries. The little girl above seems thrilled to be dressed in such finery. The little boy bears a remarkable resemblence to Porfirio Diaz in the previous picture. Under the "Porfiriate" there was a vast gap between the wealthy and the poor. The wealthy maintained their positions through debt laws, company stores, illegal land seizures, brutal repression of strikes and other such tactics. The greater the repression, the more resentment built, waiting only for a spark to ignite rebellion.

Pancho Villa was a bandit before he became a general. Villa grew up as a sharecropper in the northern state of Chihuahua. He experienced the arrogance and brutality found on some haciendas when one of the haciendados (ranch owners) raped his sister. After tracking the man down, he killed him, stole his horse, and fled to the mountains of Chihuahua for the life of a bandit. An aide to revolutionary leader Francisco Madero tracked him down and persuaded him to put the leadership skills he had developed as a bandit chieftain at the service of the Revolution. Madero's call for rebellion against Diaz was the spark that set off the Revolution. Villa was one of the key leaders who helped win it.

Pancho Villa rides again! A handsome young charro (cowboy) guides his horse skillfully through the crowd. This fellow's boots didn't near reach the stirrups, but he had full control of his mount. Ranch kids learn to ride literally almost before they can walk. I am often amazed to see a 700 lb. horse obediently taking direction from a 40 lb rider. The charro outfit, tooled saddle, and fine horse indicate this young charro has a fairly well-to-do father. Although Zapata and Villa were from the lower classes, many wealthier people supported the Revolution, particularly in the early stages. Porfirio Diaz' dictatorship shut out many talented and well-to-do people from leadership positions they felt they deserved.

Tough-looking troopers surround their chief. It was typical of Villa to wear the casual dress of his soldiers when he was in the field. I imagine it was one of the things they loved about their rough-and-ready leader. Here, he stands in the center of a heavily armed group adorned with the huge sombreros favored by the peasant armies of Villa and Zapata. Although they weren't as well-dressed as Diaz' federalistas, Villa's soldiers won most of their early battles, making up in bravery and revolutionary ardor for their sartorial deficiencies. Most of the rifles here appear to be German Mausers, the rifle of choice for all sides in the war, when they could get them. Its deadly qualities would soon be experienced by Allied soldiers on the battlefields of World War I Europe.

A rather more easy-going group of soldados. Kids in the Ajijic parade joke and poke one another, as young boys will do in any situation. Boys this age sometimes accompanied their fathers or older relatives into the army, and sometimes saw action. Kids grew up very young during the Revolution.

Villa poses with one of his many wives. Pancho Villa was reputed to have married 26 different women. There was no information with the picture indicating which one this was. Where he found the time to be married at all is a mystery to me. The Revolution kept him pretty busy for nearly 10 years.

Young love in the modern day. This pretty young girl seems to have a firm grasp on her escort for the parade. She is dressed in a beautifully woven skirt, an embroidered top and the obligatory rebozo tied across her chest. She seems to be contemplating her next move in the relationship. A typical male, he hasn't a clue what's up.

Pancho Villa rides with his army toward the border town of Ojinaga. After he seized Chihuahua, a substantial number of federalistas retreated north to Ojinaga, a town just across the Rio Grande from Presidio, Texas. Not wanting to leave this force behind him when he turned south toward Mexico City, Villa led his army to a resounding victory at Ojinaga. The battle sent many of the federalistas fleeing across the border into Texas to be interned by the US Army. They were among the first of a massive wave of Mexicans who crossed the border to escape the horrors of a war that cost the lives of as many as 1 out of 7 Mexicans. This is my favorite photo of Pancho Villa. He is completely unposed, dressed in his usual slovenly fashion when in the field, and is seen here demonstrating the superior horsemanship he developed as a bandit raider.

Mexican horsemanship didn't die with Pancho Villa. A charro dances his horse in time with a blaring brass band in the Ajijci Plaza. A fellow charro and spectators grin with appreciation at his skill. To see these highly trained horses dancing along the cobblestone streets is an amazing spectacle. The Charro Tradition began in Jalisco State, where I live.

Villa and Zapata enter Mexico city together, at the head of their troops. Pancho Villa is in the center of the second rank for horsemen. As it was a formal occasion, Villa wore a uniform. Just to the left of Villa, in the large sombrero, is Emiliano Zapata. Their armies jointly marched into the city, after ousting their enemy Carranza. Zapata's troops were disciplined, and city residents were amazed when they politely knocked on doors and asked for food. Villa's troops were as unruly as their bandit chieftain-turned general, and eventually Villa had to pull out of the city because of citizen complaints.

Charros canter down the street with the same esprit as the old revolutionary army. With a few bandoliers and Winchesters, they could have stepped right out of history. Charros are well organized and trained and take great pride in their traditions and skills.

Ready to sing or fight. This squad of revolutionary soldados is armed to the teeth with guns and musical instruments. The old man with the violin and the boy with the guitar probably accompanied them on many a corrido around the campfire. There are at least two types of corridos: epic and narrative. The epic corrido carries a tradition that goes back to the ancient Greece of Homer and the Viking sagas. It tells the stories of great heros and their deeds. The narrative tells of notable events such as train wrecks and great love affairs. The lyric quality of the corrido distinguishes it from other traditions. It is the voice of the people sung from the heart and accompanied, usually, by the guitar. Corridos are a musical art form still practiced today.

"La Cucaracha, la cucaracha..." This little boy belted out the famous marching corrido of Pancho Villa's Division of the North. This corrido, or at least its title, is probably one of the few Mexican songs familiar to most norteamericanos. It bemoans the cockroaches of army camp life, the lack of marijuana to smoke, and the desire to braid the beard of Venustiano Carranza, an enemy of Villa, into a hat band for their bandit-general. A corrido has potentially endless verses, limited only by the imagination (and probably the tequila supply) of the singer.

High tide for the people's Revolution. Villa (left center), and Zapata (right center) sit together in the National Palace in Mexico City after forcing their former ally Venustiano Carranza to flee. Carranza had refused to acknowledge the presidential choice of a convention of revolutionaries, wanting the job for himself. To me, this picture captures the different personalities of the two generals. Villa is ebullient and jocular. Zapata is brooding and a little dreamy. His Plan of Ayala was not only visionary but he put it into practical application with such effectiveness that US President Wilson's emissary declared the Zapata-controlled territory as an area of "true social revolution". Villa never quite got away from his bandit background, and had a habit of funding his revolutionary army with bank and train robberies and by kidnapping haciendados. He endorsed the Plan of Ayala but never produced anything comparable for the areas he controlled. Ultimately, both revolutionaries were assassinated by their enemies, Zapata in 1917 and Villa in 1923. After they died, revolutionary leaders of a more elite background assumed control, and although these new leaders implemented important reforms, the kind of social revolution envisioned by Zapata and endorsed by Villa died with them.

The future of Mexico. Two little girls peer out of a second floor window, near where I had set up on the roof of the Secret Garden restaurant so I could get overhead shots of the parade. Mexico's children are its future, and it must have a big future because it has so many. These two were darling and immediately wanted me to take their picture when they figured out what I was doing.

This ends my posting on the Mexican Revolution and Ajijic's Dia de la Revolucion. Please feel free to comment in the comments area below. If you ask a question, please leave your email address in the comment box so that I can respond.

Hasta luego! Jim

Corn Harvest Fiesta at Raul's farm

Evangelina brandishes roasted corn ear at Raul's Corn Harvest Fiesta. Evangelina is a regular hiker and is married to Chuck, who leads the Friday hiking group. Last summer we met a local Mexican farmer named Raul during one of our several explorations of the wonderful cascadas (waterfalls) of Barranca Yerba Buena. He put aside his farm work and led us on a spectacular hike to the Inner Gorge falls. After that hike, Raul invited us to return in the Fall for a fiesta when he would harvest his corn crop. On the Corn Harvest Fiesta adventure, I was pretty busy and didn't have a lot of time to take photos, so many of what follow were taken by others. I have tried to give credit to the photographers, but if I missed any credits due, or mis-credited any shots, I apologize in advance. The photo above was by Chuck Boyd.

View of the south side Mt. Garcia looking west. Raul's farm sits high on a plateau overlooking a lush valley on the south side of the mountains which line the south shore of Lake Chapala. In late September, hikers from both the Tuesday and the Friday hiking groups took him up on his fiesta invitation. Many of the Tuesday regulars had been to the Barranca at one time or another, but this was the first time for most of the Friday group. We decided to combine the fiesta with hike up to the cascadas so the Friday folks could get a taste of this beautiful canyon. It fell to me to organize the outing, but I could never have done it without Chuck, who recuited several hikers with 4-wheel-drive vehicles, and Patricia, a Mexican hiker who was our liaison with Raul and his wife Germina, neither of whom speak English.

Mr. Hospitality, Raul serves up some roasted corn ears to the arriving hikers. Raul, seen above with the big grin and the straw hat, had been busy helping Germina prepare some roasted corn so the arriving hikers could whet their appetites before the hike. There was so much interest in this event that we ended up cramming 22 hikers into 5 4x4s for the 90 minute drive around behind the mountains lining the south side of the Lake. The road to Raul's farm begins just below the little town of Citala which is just east of Chamecuero on the map in this link. I was a little concerned about losing anyone from this rather large group, so I cautioned everyone against dawdling or wandering off down enticing side trails. With so many people, hiking at different speeds, and strung out over a large stretch of trail, it would have been easy to come up short a hiker or two when we got back to Raul's farm. In the event, my anxiety was unfounded, and everyone made it just fine.

Germina proudly shows off her bean crop. Germina took the lead to guide us through the farm to the main trail. Along the way, she was happy to field questions about her crop, obviously proud of the bountiful result of Raul and her hard work. The couple owns or maintains several substantial fields of beans and corn on the plateau overlooking the small town of Citala. In some of the fields, the two crops are planted together. The corn stalks form an ideal pole for the bean plant to climb, and the beans fix nitrogen into the soil for the nitrogen-hungry corn. This is a method of planting that long pre-dates the arrival of the Spanish in Mexico.

Scarecrows, Mexican-style. On the way through the fields, we noticed human sillouettes painted in white on flat rocks propped up against the dry stone walls. I suspected these might be scarecrows, and Raul confirmed it with his usual good-natured grin.

Bluffs line the south side of the valley, and above these bluffs lies yet another plateau. We had to drive up a steep, rugged, and unpaved farm road onto a broad plateau to get to Raul's farm. Once on the plateau, we found a line of deep green bluffs running east to west. The Inner Gorge of the Barranca cuts due south into these bluffs, before ending in a deep box canyon, into which drop the magnificent cascadas. On the plateau above the box canyon lies more farm land and a large reservoir, the source of the year-round water which flows over the falls, down the Barranca, and finally into the valley at the foot of the south side Mt. Garcia.

View of the valley below Mt. Garcia, looking due west. In the distance are the blue escarpments of the Tapalpa plateau. We couldn't have asked for better weather, just enough clouds to keep things cool, but interspersed with blue sky and warm sunshine. Photo above by Chuck Boyd.

Friend or foe? As we neared the trailhead into the canyon, we encountered a horse. He seemed amazed at this large group of odd-looking Gringos, and was frozen in indecision over whether to approach us or flee. We were probably more people than he had seen at one time in his life. Having grown up in and spent most of my life in a highly urbanized environment, I love these close encounters with the animals of Mexico.

A flash of gold, then a beautiful pose. Mexico is full of a large variety of beautiful mariposas (butterflies). My friend and fellow hiker Christopher took this shot. Amazingly, the mariposa remained motionless for a very long time, allowing Christopher to capture this great shot. Photo by C. Jordan English.

Evangelina enters the jungle. In late September, we still get a fair amount of rain, and the forest undergrowth had become almost impassable, except on well-defined trails. This was where I was sure we'd lose some hikers. A step or two up the trail and the person in front or in back disappears. A wrong turn could have split our party into two or more groups floundering about in this jungle. Fortunately, we had enough experienced hikers to keep things moving in the right direction. Photo by Chuck Boyd.

The green maze contained many unusual plants. These large leaves contained graceful sworls that caught the eye of the photographer. Photo by Chuck Boyd.

An iridescent insect explores a twig. Christopher is especially interested in insects, and will often lag far behind his hiking party to catch a shot of a particularly interesting bug. He has lately been providing me with a substantial collection of his insect photos, some of them truly beautiful, and I will do a special blog posting some time in the future to showcase them. Photo by C. Jordan English.

Rust-orange flowers grace the trailside. I haven't identified these pretty little flowers, so any help would be appreciated. In our area, Spring is the hot, dry, brown season, with few wildflowers. October is when our wildflowers explode all over the mountains.

Evangelina at the cave. There are several caves in and around the Barranca. In this one we found a live bat, which flew out as soon as someone entered. We also found several old pop bottles, indicating that the local people used the cave upon occasion. I have no doubt this cave has seen many occupants over several thousand years. Photo by Chuck Boyd.

At last, the cascada shimmers in the distance. We could hear the falls long before we could see them. Finally, we began to catch glimpses of them through the heavy growth. Here you can only see the top 20 feet or so of the 150+ feet of the upper falls. The dark objects on the lower right are large seed pods hanging from tree branches.

The cascadas drop vertically to a deep pool in the box canyon. Once again, this shot only captures the middle section of the falls. Because of the undergrowth, the narrowness of the canyon, and the precarious ledges closer to the falls, it was difficult to get one shot of the whole cascada. We have yet to find a way down into the base of this box canyon. Raul told us there is a way, but it is very steep and dangerous without ropes. Lacking equipment, we decided to put that adventure off to a future hike.

Caroline braves the cliff edge for a photo. Caroline is one of the more adventurous of the hikers. Here she peers over the cliff edge down a vertical 150+ feet to the brown water of the box canyon's bottom. Many of the hikers, both men and women, shied from appoaching this rather intimidating drop-off. Obviously vertigo is not one of Caroline's phobias. The cascada spouts from the canyon's rim about 30 feet to Caroline's left. The flat rock she is lying upon is quite large, and easily accomodated all 22 hikers plus Raul and Germina. After a rest, we regrouped for the hike back to our fiesta feast.

Anne and Jim meet a friend. As we entered the farm road leading back to Raul's place, we encountered this little fellow. He may well be the same burro we made friends with some months ago, when one of our hiking party mesmerized a similar burro with celery and peanut butter treats. As before, the burro was wearing a rustic saddle and bridle, but the owner was nowhere to be found. The animal was extraordinarily friendly and seemed to crave pets and attention. We obliged, as did numerous others of our party.

Mexican farmers make good use of local materials at hand. Raul separates his fields with loose stone walls, punctuated by "Mexican fencepost" cactus. This allows him to protect his crops from hungry horses, cattle, and burros, but also provides some place to pile up the incredible number of stones these field produce. It often seemed there were more rocks than dirt. When I first hiked the area last Spring, the fields were fallow and I assumed they were good only for pasture. Then, during the summer and Fall, I realized that the farmers not only planted these fields, but harvested large crops from them. How they manage to plow is still a mystery to me.

Meanwhile, back at the ranch... Raul and Germina chatted with Sally (on left) as the Corn Harvest Fiesta got fully under way back at their rustic farm casita. They used large stones from the fields to build up walls on three sides. Tree trunks formed the supporting posts and straight branches acted as cross braces for the old-fashioned clay-tile roof. The whole thing was held together by twine. Sections of logs formed seats, and a flat rusty piece of iron over large rocks formed a cooking stove. They actually live in town, but can use this primative but homey place when they are working on their fields. I imagine that campesinos have used structures like this from at least Spanish colonial times.

A final note: at first I was blown away by the easy-going generosity of Raul and Germina. They were two of the nicest people I have encountered in Mexico. However, as I have explored deeper into Mexico's back country, I have met with similar hospitality everywhere. Mexico, for all its problems, is a fabulous country full of warm and friendly people.

I hope you enjoyed Raul and Germina's Corn Fiesta Harvest as much as all we hikers did. Comments are welcome and encouraged. You can either used the comments section at the end of this post, or send me an email directly. If you use the comments section for a question, please put in your email so I can answer you.

Hasta luego! Jim

Zacatecas Part 6: The Magic Pueblo of Jerez

A visit to a Pueblo Magico. Above, the entrance gate of of the Parrochia church in Jerez named Nuestra Senora de la Soledad is draped with banners for a fiesta. Jerez is about the same distance southwest from Zacatecas as the La Quemada ruins, 57 kilometers or about 25 miles, but it is a little further west. Both can be visited on the same day-trip. A visit to Jerez was one of Carole's priorities because of its Magic Pueblo status. To gain this status, a town in Mexico must have special architectural, historical, or cultural aspects. Jerez has all three, and more.

Sanctuary of Our Lady of Solitude. The church as built in 1805 in the neoclassic style that had begun to replace the baroque. The Sanctuary is famous for its resemblance to a very famous sanctuary in Spain called Santiago de Compostela. Nuestra Senora de la Soledad is the patron saint of Jerez and is reported to have interceded to bring military victories three times to forces protecting the town.

A town born under seige. Above, the side view of the Sanctuary shows the dome over the main altar area. Apparently, Jerez needed divine help because the indigenous inhabitants had some serious objections to the Spanish arrival. From the earliest days of Spanish colonization in 1531, various tribes including the Zapotecs and the Guachichiles fought them bitterly. In the Jerez area, the locals waged such an intense war that the Spanish had to abandon the town for a time and withdraw to safer precincts. For nearly 50 years, the indigenous people attacked settlements and--even worse from the Spanish point of view--the silver caravans from Zacatecas to Guadalajara.

Interior of La Senora de la Soledad. The cool, quiet, dim interior of the church lends itself to prayer and contemplation. Between 1550 and 1570, the indigenous people's attacks were incessant. Finally in 1570, a Spanish captain named Pedro Carrillo Davila set up a military post which became a permanent settlement called Jerez de la Frontera. The name was possibly taken from a similar town in Spanish Andalusia which was known for its fortified wine called sherry, or Jerez in Spanish.

A view of the arched ceiling of the Sanctuary. I took the shot above from directly below the chandelier, which appears as a starburst from below. I'm always impressed by the fine detail in features of colonial religious architecture which might otherwise be overlooked, such as the ceiling. Jerez was an outlying town of other jurisdictions until after the War of Independence when in 1824 it achieved the status of municipality, roughly equivalent to a US county.

Richly decorated pulpit adorns the side of the interior of the Sanctuary. The nearby Cardos mountains probably supplied the wood for this creation. In 2005 the municipality of Jerez had a population of 56,980, of which 38,624 live in the town of Jerez, which corresponds to a county seat. Jerez is surrounded by the flat, lush farmland of the Malpaso Valley. The town seems prosperous, and the people we met were very friendly and outgoing.

A lush, beautifully tended town Plaza. As with most towns we have visited in Mexico, the Plaza was central to everything else. The one in Jerez was obviously the pride of the community. Also, like nearly every other plaza we have seen, the centerpiece was the kiosco, or bandstand in the middle. This one was unusual because there was an office underneath housing the tourist bureau. Usually there are no windows on the bottom of a kiosco and the room is used for storage if anything. With windows all around looking out on the beautiful greenery, it seemed like a great work location, as well as making a lot of sense for a tourist office. Too often, in my experience, tourist offices are in obscure locations.

Statue forms an unusual fountain. The sculptor of this classical 19th Century fountain decided the water should flow from the pitcher in one hand of the goddess, to the cup in the other. Unfortunately, the water was not turned on during our visit, so I didn't get to see it in action. It would have made an interesting photo with the light glinting off the stream of water. Ripe oranges dangle from the tree in the background.

Another unusual statue. Denis, our Irish friend, commented that he had never seen a statue with glasses. Neither had I, until now. Candelario Huizar, shown above, was a musician and composer born in Jerez. During the Revolution, he was saxaphone player in the brass band of the Division of the North, Pancho Villa's army. After the war, he furthered his musical studies and became famous for melding Mexican folk music into classical music forms, in the process writing four symphonies. Huizar is not the only great artist celebrated in Jerez. While I was browsing around the plaza, friendly local cab drivers accosted me and asked if I knew that poet Ramon Lopez Velarde was born here. I thanked my stars that I had done a little research, because they were suitably impressed that a visiting Gringo would know about Velarde, who is considered Mexico's greatest poet. I seriously doubt that if I stopped a random American on the streets of the US, he or she would be able to name a great American poet. Mexicans are very proud of their culture, and should be.

Portales shade the walkway along one side of the street facing the Plaza. Portales have an ancient history. 500 years ago, Phillip II of Spain (the same one who sent the Armada against Elizabeth I of England), decreed that Mexican plazas should all have these covered walkways. His intent was to provide shelter from rain and scorching sun to those who wished to conduct business around the plaza. A rather enlightened decree, I thought. 500 years later, old portales like these can be found everywhere in Mexico.

Pedestrian-only street, near the Plaza. More Mexican cities and towns are designating streets around plazas to be auto-free, a practice I welcome. Here, Jerez officials have moved wrought-iron benches out into the street. The big fiesta of the year is called El Festival de Primavera (Spring Break) during Easter Week. Jerez is famous for its Spring Break Charreadas (rodeos) with traditional dances, horse races and other cultural activities. On Holy Saturday, effigies of Judas are burned, followed by a huge Desfile de los Charros (cowboy parade). This is another aspect of Jerez that brought it the Pueblo Magico designation.

Arteseanas y antiguidades. Folk art and antiquities are the goods this store boasts of in its sign. I spotted this store early in our visit and made sure to stop by before we left. While most of the goods inside were the usual tourist knick knacks, there was quite a selection of old harnesses, bits, bridles, and other antique horse equipment, along with well used sombreros and serapes.

We selected the Hotel Jardin as our lunch spot. The hotel faces the Plaza and provided an excellent and very inexpensive lunch. Almost immediately we were approached by a friendly man who turned out to be a Mexican-American guest at the hotel, down visiting family. During lunch, we were serenaded by a group of wandering musicians. The rooms at the hotel were cozy and comfortable-looking, and also very inexpensive. When we visit the area again, we intend to try out the Hotel Jardin.

An international lineup. From the left, Carole (US), Verena (Germany), Julika (Germany), Denis (Ireland). The geographical mixture of our group turned out to be very interesting and entertaining, as our different cultural backgrounds interacted with the Mexican culture we were encountering.

This completes Part 6--the last part--of my Zacatecas series. I hope you have enjoyed Jerez and the rest of our Zacatecas adventure. My next posting will jump back a couple of months to the Corn Harvest Fiesta we attended on Raul's farm south of Lake Chapala.

As always, I love hearing from people. If you'd like to respond, you can leave a comment in the section below. If you want to ask a question, please leave an email address so I can respond.

Hasta luego, Jim

Zacatecas Part 5: Ancient ruins of La Quemada

La Quemada, enigma of the north. One of my goals during our stay in Zacatecas was to visit La (ciudad) Quemada, which in Spanish means "the burnt city." This refers to a massive fire, traces of which were found by early Spanish visitors to the area. Carole and I, along with our Irish and German friends Denis, Julika, and Verena, visited the La Quemada site on our last full day in Zacatecas. La Quemada lies about 25 miles (approximately 56 kilometers) southwest of Zacatecas, about 1/2 way between Malpaso and Villanueva. From Zacatecas' El Centro, the trip takes about 40 minutes one way.

Above, Carole walks along one of the broad steps leading from a lower level of the ruins to the palace complex above on the ridge. The steps were perhaps 4 feet wide and 30 feet long, which suggests an area created for grand processions. The day was gorgeous and sunny, with fluffy white clouds punctuating a deep blue sky. In the distance lies a shining lake created by damming the Malpaso river.

Map of La Quemada ruins. The map above shows La Quemada strung out along a ridge that rises in a south to north axis about 1/2 mile long (see the map orientation). For a satellite photo of the site, click here. In the photo above, the dark green square on the left is the Chamber of Columns. Immediately above the Chamber of Columns is a lighter green square that is a large plaza. Just to the right of the plaza is the long slender rectangle of the Ball Court. At the right end of the Ball Court is the small square representing the Votive Pyramid. Above the Votive Pyramid, the main complex of rooms, terraces, plazas and small pyramids rises to the top of the ridge. Off to the far right is a defensive bastion built in the late stages of occupation. Apparently, the people of La Quemada were under attack in this period. Some archaeologists believe the traces of fire found by the early Spanish, and still evident in some places, indicate a violent end to the life of the city.

The Chamber of Columns is the first ruin you encounter. To the right of the Chamber, you can see the grassy plaza area. The Chamber of Columns sits on the first and lowest of a rising series of plateaus at the extreme south end of the ruins. The telephoto shot above was taken from the top of the ridge, looking toward the southeast. You can see the cultivated areas in the photo just above the Chamber. These were probably also cultivated in early times. La Quemada lies in a long, wide valley extending southwest from Zacatecas. The valley is watered by the Malpaso river, the damming of which has created a large lake just to the east of the ruins, which you can see in the first photo of this posting. The general area is fairly dry, but when irrigated by the river, it has been agriculturally productive for thousands of years. Early crops included maize, beans, squash, maguey, amaranth, tomato, and fruits. Archeological evidence indicates that the farming was done in communal terraces, with water carried up from the river below. In addition cultivated food, the whole area is thick with natural food plants such as the nopal cactus.

Massive columns dot the interior of the great Chamber. The size of this room, with its massive stone columns, is another indication that the area was a major religious/ceremonial center. The earliest settlements in the area were established around 200-300 AD, with the major occupation and building occurring between 500-900 AD. By 1000 AD, the site was abandoned. From at least early Spanish times people have speculated about the people and culture represented here. Early Spaniards, such as Fray Juan de Torquemada in 1615, held that La Quemada corresponded to the legendary Chicostomoc, a place where the Aztecs tarried for 9 years on their way to settling in the Valley of Mexico far to the south. Others have held that the ruins were a northern settlement of the great Empire of Teotihuacan, or perhaps one of the Toltec outposts. Some suggested that the Tarascan Empire of Michoancan may have created a bastion here against marauding Chichimeca nomads. Recent archaeological evidence suggests that the ceremonial center may have local roots, created by the indigenous people of the area for religious and later defensive purposes. No one knows the origins for sure, and La Quemada's position as the only major site for hundreds of miles in every direction gives it an extra aura of mystery.

Rhyolite stone columns rise massively against the sky. In the photo above, I was impressive by the size of these columns. It is hard to say how much taller they were originally, but as you can see from how they tower over me, they were constructed to support a large and very heavy structure. The stone structures were covered by a layer of "barro" (earth) and a vegetable fibre plaster, and then whitewashed with lime. If the whole complex was whitewashed and painted, it must have presented a magnificent sight when approached from afar, as it rose up the ridge from the flat valley against the azure sky.

La Quemada served as the local "Home Depot" for a thousand years. After it was abandoned somewhere between 900-1000 AD, the site was scavenged for building materials for the next 1000 years. This accelerated after the Spanish settled the area in the last half of the 16th Century and looked for easy sources of materials for their towns and haciendas . Approximately 15% of the site was destroyed by these activities, aside from natural deterioration. Above, workers haul cement to stabilize the walls of the Chamber of Columns.

Flowers graced the broad level area of the plaza next to the Chamber of Columns. We visited in late September, just at the end of the rainy season, and wildflowers bloomed everywhere. I haven't been able to identify this lovely little 5-pointed star flower.

Main ceremonial complex looms in the distance. In the photo above, you are looking north from the plaza next to the Chamber of Columns. The ridge along which the main section of terraces and palaces were built rises above the plateau on which the Chamber of Columns sits. The whole area glowed golden in the afternoon sun.

Broad stairway leads from the Ball Court to the main ceremonial complex. The walls lining either side of the Ball Court can be seen at the base of the stairs to the right of the tree at the bottom. There are several great staircases in the complex, all impressively built with flat stones. The lake formed from the Malpaso River shimmers in the distance. Beyond the lake, the highlands on the east side of the Malpaso Valley rise up to a rolling plateau.

View from the top of the ceremonial complex. The complex drops off down the hillside, level by level. Just below are rooms of palaces and ceremonial areas. The next level down, in the center of the photo, has a series of smaller rooms. I speculated that some of these circular and oval rooms may have been storage areas for food or other goods. Below those rooms, in the distance, you can see the Chamber of Columns. To the left of the Chamber, slanting down toward the left side of the photo, is the long Ball Court.

The Ball Court, looking north toward the Votive Pyramid at the far end. Ball courts are features found in major Mesoamerican ruins from Nicaragua to northern Arizona in the US. They were not just sports stadiums, but had major religious and ceremonial significance in various cultures of Mesoamerica for over 3000 years. While the specific rules of the game are unknown, it may have been played somewhat like volleyball or racquet ball, where the aim is to keep the ball in play. In some versions, only the hips could be used to strike the ball. The court's shape of a long, narrow "I" is a characteristic of the Epic Classic period (750-950 AD). Because the Ball Court is placed within the ceremonial complex, it undoubtedly had religious significance and quite possibly was associated with human sacrifice. Numerous polished clay floors have been found under the court, along with evidence of human burials. The walls lining the sides of the Ball Court were originally much higher but the stones were looted over the centuries for building materials.

Life goes on, even in this abandoned ruin. I happened to glance down to see this pair of mating grasshoppers near the Ball Court. Carole calls this "insect porn." Whatever else has happened over the 17oo years or so since humans first settled this area, insects like these have carried on with their lives. The remote ancestors of these grasshoppers may have witnessed great pyramids under construction, heard the screams of human sacrifice, seen the plumes of fire that ended La Quemada, and even hopped over the feet of newly arrived conquistadors. Today they carry on under the close inspection of a visiting Gringo, lending a sense of permanence to a place that has seen innumerable changes.

The Votive Pyramid peeps above a ruined palace. The surrounding plain, dotted with nopal cactus, stretches out to the eastern highlands which rim the Malpaso Valley. There is a sense of vast distances here, and silent open space that I found particularly affecting.

The Votive Pyramid is noted for the unusual steepness of its sloping sides. The Votive Pyramid is the best known structure of La Quemada, probably because it is so photogenic. The original structure was covered by a smooth mud plaster. Over the centuries this washed away revealing the stones and the mud mortar connecting them underneath. At some point the Pyramid began to collapse. The stairway you can see above, on the south side of the Pyramid, used to reach to the top of the structure, but most of it was destroyed in the collapse. Originally, a small temple or altar graced the top of the Pyramid, possibly the site of human sacrifice.

The Ball Court ends at the Votive Temple. One can imagine members of the losing team ascending the steps to the sacrificial altar. The photo was taken from the top of the ceremonial complex, looking southeast.

Wild flowers exuberantly explode from the side of a ruined wall. Another example of the continuity of life, even in a place that experienced disaster and ruin. According to Carole, these may be white marigolds.

The northern bastion, evidence of a desperate defense. Just beyond the top of the hill containing the main complex, the ridge dips and then rises again to another promontory. On top of this was a fortress with steep walls. The fortress ruins can just be seen on the top of the hill. The fortress used the natural stone features like those seen above as part of the defense. Snaking off to the right is a stone walkway connecting the main complex with the bastion. This area was developed very late in La Quemada's history, which suggests that this long-occupied center of agriculture and trade was under attack. Who were the attackers? No one knows, but they were probably the same that ultimately put La Quemada to the torch, giving it a name to replace the one no one now knows.

A road to nowhere. Above you see a telephoto closeup of the stone stairway spiraling around the back of the promontory to the bastion above. The Malpaso Valley stretches off to the north. If the attackers were nomadic Chichimecas coming into the area, they may have arrived from this direction, hence the location of the bastion.

An ancient road complex is a unique feature of La Quemada. Directly below are palace grounds and the remains of another pyramid. This level ends in a steep wall and cliffs just beyond the small ruins running across the top of the photo. These walls and cliffs drop down 150 feet or so to the fields you can see in the upper part of the photo. The dark green of the fields shows densely packed nopal cactus. A close examination of these fields reveals dark lines extending toward the top of the photo, and another veering off toward the upper right corner. These are the remains of ancient roads constructed with stone slabs and clay between 600-900 AD. The roads connect the main ceremonial and defensive complex with more than 200 ancient ruins which were outlying communities. More than 170 kilometers of these ruined roads have been detected, extending throughout the Malpaso Valley. These roads are a unique aspect of La Quemada in pre-Hispanic Mexico, and for centuries survived the traditional ploughs. Unfortunately, modern tractors have begun to obliterate the old roads.

Stairway to heaven. Another set of steep stairways rises up the wall toward the platform containing the palace and small pyramid seen in the previous picture. Vegetation grows through some of the crumbling walls. In their original whitewashed state, these walls would have gleamed splendidly in the bright sun of Zacatecas, broadcasting a message power and prosperity.

A view from below. At the base of the great walls, on the Ball Court level, one can appreciate the immense effort and level of organization needed to build this great complex. With no draft animals, no wheeled vehicles, and no iron tools, it must have taken careful planning, and a highly organized and skilled workforce to create something of this size and magnificence.

This ends Part 5 of my series on Zacatecas. I hope I have been able to share the sense of the awe which inspired me when I first came upon the wonderful ruins of La Quemada. If you ever visit Zacatecas, I strongly encourage you to take time to visit these lovely, lonely ruins.

As always, I appreciate your thoughts, comments, and questions. You can leave them either in the comments section below, or by emailing me directly. If you leave a question in the comments section, please include your email so that I can respond.

Zacatecas Part 4: Fantastic masks of the Rafael Coronel Museum

The Rafael Coronel Museum contains a huge collection of extraordinary masks. Carole has become an aficionado of indigenous Mexican masks, about a dozen of which adorn the walls of our Ajijic home. When she read about the thousands of masks contained in the Zacatecas' Rafael Coronel Museum, she put that on the top of her "must-see" list. The mask above is one of many which depict the natural world. Actual antlers and animal hair were used to heighten the realism of the mask, although I have never seen a deer with such as sinister grin. Since I am publishing this blog post on the eve of both Halloween (Oct. 31) and the Dias de los Muertos (Nov. 1-2), I decided to dedicate it to those two fiestas, closely linked on the calendar, but entirely different in tone, focus, and history. What they share is a delight in scary masks and haunted houses. For days/hours of operation, and fees of the Rafael Coronel Museum, click here.

An ideal location for a haunted house. The Rafael Coronel Museum occupies the ruins of the Convento de San Francisco, built in 1567, the first Franciscan convent in the province of Zacatecas. The construction was authorized by Pedro de Ayala, Bishop of Nueva Galicia (Guadalajara). I shot the photo above from a Teleferico car dangling high in the air on the ride down from La Bufa. The Templo, or church part of the convent, burned down 80 years after the convent was built but was quickly rebuilt in 1648. The Templo is the tall rectangular building on the left side with the white-topped dome. The Ex-Convento is the lower building on the right with the five portales (archways) facing the green lawn.

The Ex-Convento was extremely important to early Franciscan evangelization. The earliest missionary here was Fray Geronimo de Mendoza, who took up residence shortly after the convent was completed. The Convento de San Francisco de Zacatecas was one of the twelve most important of such complexes in the Americas. From here, missionaries fanned out through Northern Mexico and what is now the Southwestern United States. Above, a series of arched passageways seems to lure a visitor into mysterious regions beyond.

Gorgeously lush gardens suddenly appear when ruined corners are turned. Purple bougainevilla flowered in a quiet corner of the ruins. In the mid-1850's Benito Juarez became Mexico's first full-blooded Indian president and instituted the Reform Laws, aimed in part at curbing the overwhelming and pervasive power of the Catholic Church in Mexican society. For centuries, the Church had acted as an ally and apologist for the rich, and Juarez saw it as a major obstacle to social and economic change. In 1856, the Franciscan Convento was closed, along with many other religious facilities around the country. Naturally enough, when local people observed the departure of the Franciscans, they moved right in and created their own neighborhood on the property. Gradually walls and roofs were removed to sell the materials, and the property fell more and more into ruin.

A "flying buttress" supports a wall in an inner courtyard. The arched support above is an architectural innovation of the Middle Ages. Medieval architects realized that they couldn't construct the graceful walls of their churches above a limited height without making the walls so thick that the structure would become impractical. The solution was the flying buttress, which allowed huge stained-glass windows and soaring walls. The walls could remain relatively thin, giving the structure an open, airy feel. When the Ex-Convento was constructed, Spain had only recently emerged from the Middle Ages, and the old architectural styles were imported to Nueva Espana.

The Ex-Convento deteriorated for almost a century. In 1953, an effort began to restore the old structure before it completely fell apart. However, it wasn't until the 1980s that reconstruction began in earnest. As a great admirer of ruins, I was glad the restorationists chose to maintain the "ruined" aspect of much of the structures, even as they built their museum. The Ex-Convento is a quiet, dreamy place, worth an afternoon's ramble even without visiting its spectacular museum. I could almost hear the haunting footsteps of colonial friars as they rushed about preparing for another risky mission among the savage tribes of the North.

A great collapse. While the area of the Convento was abandoned, the Templo continued in use until a few years after the Revolution. In 1924, the vault of the main nave of the church (see above) collapsed. It took another three decades before the architectural value of the property was fully recognized and restoration finally began in 1987. One of Zacatecas' famous artists, Rafael Coronel, offered his collection of masks and other objects which became the major focus of the museum.

Empty passageways, ruined walls, with the sky as the only roof. This whole site is very evocative, and I lost track of Carole and our European friends as I wandered from room to passage to courtyard, the walls all overflowing with flowering vines. I lost myself in the feel of the place and the joy of photographing it. Finally, I broke away from my haunted old convent, and decided to venture into the scary precincts of its Museo de Mascaras.

The Rafael Coronel Museum contains a vast mask collection. In my research for this post, I found various estimates of the number of masks in the collection. The highest was 10,000. One article stated that, whatever the number, those on display were only 30% of the total, the remainder being kept in storage. The skull masks above were probably meant for a Dia del Muerto fiesta.

Some masks reflect the wild animals found in the indigenous makers' environment. Above you can see representations of various members of the cat family, including jaguars. In some indigenous communities, the animals were considered protectors. When the masks were worn during ceremonies, the wearer would dance in imitation of the movements of the animal represented.

Close view of cat mask reveals a successful hunt. The jaguar shown above appears to have caught a snake, which writhes in its mouth. The mast is carved from wood, with actual fur attached as cat whiskers. The earliest mask found in Mexico may have been made between 12,000 and 10,000 BCE, and represents the head of a coyote.

Hungry caiman appears ready to leap on its prey. Crocodiles, alligators, and caiman are found in the swamps and lagoons along Mexico's coastal areas. The mask above is worn on the shoulders with the person's head through the hole in the middle. About 1200 BC, masks in clay and stone began to appear. Later, the Mayas built the Palace of Masks about 10 AD, in Uxmal, a major site near Merida in Yucatan. The rain god Chac appears in hundreds of masks at the site.

Not one you'd want to meet in a dark alley. The mask museum was eery. It wasn't just the masks, but the dim lighting of the seemingly endless series of rooms, empty of people but full of masks. Intent on photographing a mask, I would feel the hairs on my neck rise up. Turning quickly, I would find something like this staring me in the face.

Some of the masks reflected the native view of the arriving Spanish. This creation was more than a mask. The wearer also donned a set of armor, based upon the costume of the ruthless and grim-faced Spanish conquistadors. Many of the other masks representing Spanish figures were big-nosed and pink-skinned. Appropriately, ghostly images are reflected in the glass of the case containing this armored figure.

Domesticated animals introduced by the Spanish also began to appear in masks. One of the aspects I found fascinating was the depiction of more than one animal in a mask. In this case, a lizard climbs down the snout of a rather startled-looking cow.

Another cow, this time with a toothy grin. Indigenous masks are a way of integrating the secular and the religious. Aztec priests wore masks at human sacrifices, but so did their sacrificial victims. Warriors in the indigenous military orders wore masks representing animals, such as jaguars, that were the symbol of their order.

A mask to make Mick Jagger proud. This one reminded me of the famous Rolling Stones poster with the meaty lips and protruding tongue. Jagger, who wrote a song about the Devil, would probably identify with this mask. Often, masks like these would be worn in conjunction with masks representing Catholic saints in dramas where they would vanquish the Devil figures.

And speaking of devils... The mask maker pulled out all the stops on this one. Three sets of horns, a nose like a coiled snake, and a tiny mask on the end of the tongue are only a few of the details the maker included. Guaranteed to scare!

A magnificent set of mountain sheep horns adorns this mask. Once again, the maker has included real features of the actual animal depicted, but added his own touches including squinting eyes and a rather creepy smile.

Warthog peers out from dark, hooded eyes. Another critter obviously up to no good, and one that gave me a start in a shadowy room.

A wooden mask with actual teeth. Although more primitive than some, and unpainted, I found this mask particularly striking because of the teeth, which may or may not be human. There was no sign to explain. Unlike the conception of self in European societies, the indigenous people believed that the person was not separate from his environment, with distinct boundaries. Instead, they believed there was a direct relationship, almost a continuum, between the person and the natural life around him or her. Often they believed that each person had an animal counterpart with supernatural powers which could be called upon through rituals including masks.

Boo! Happy Halloween and Feliz Dia del Muertos! Hasta luego. Jim